Using SF Symbols as Text

Apple says that SF Symbols are compatible with text in their videos (baseline, etc.). The SF Symbols app lets you copy a symbol and paste it into TextEdit where it shows the SF Pro and SF Compact fonts in the font menu.

Pasting a symbol into a label or into the Title of a View shows the symbol correctly in the IDE but when run in the simulator you get an undefined character glyph instead.

The SF Pro and SF Compact fonts are not available in the Font Inspector for a label.

I was hoping to use a table datasource with the symbols in cell.Text instead of cell.Image as I may have more than one symbol to display.

Am I out of luck?